Curtains Store New York: Measuring Tips for Pre-War Windows
Pre-war windows have character, and that character shows up the moment you pull out a tape measure. Openings drift out of square, trim runs deep, and a radiator usually sits right where the curtains want to fall. Small errors here tend to show. Here’s how to measure so the panels hang the way you pictured.
Key Takeaways
- Older openings are rarely uniform, so measuring at several points usually saves a remake.
- Radiators, plaster walls, and deep trim can change both curtain length and bracket placement.
- Stack-back space and rod height often matter as much as the window size itself.
Anyone who has lived in a pre-war building knows the walls aren’t quite straight. Neither are the windows. A frame that looks even from across the room can be a quarter inch off from top to bottom.
That’s one reason people start with a curtain store in New York that has measured older apartments before. The numbers you write down decide how well every panel fits, and pre-war windows leave little room for rough estimates.
The tips below cover the opening, mounting, radiators, walls, rod height, stack-back, and unusual shapes. Work through them with a steel tape and a notepad. A second pair of hands helps too.
Measure the Opening Three Times
Measure the width at the top, middle, and bottom of the opening. Then measure the height on the left, center, and right. In an older building, those numbers often won’t match.
Write every figure down. For inside mounts, the smallest width is usually the safe one to use. For outside mounts, the largest measurement tells you how far the rod has to reach.
What to note on each window:
- Width at top, middle and bottom
- Height at left, center, and right
- Any bowing or sag in the frame
- Which figure you plan to order from
Inside or Outside Mount
Pre-war windows often sit in deep recesses with heavy trim around them. That depth can make an inside mount look neat. It can also leave very little room if the trim is shallow or uneven.
An outside mount places the rod above and beyond the opening. It covers more of the wall, hides crooked frames, and usually suits full-length curtains better.
Things to weigh before deciding:
- How deep the window recess is
- Whether the trim is wide enough for brackets
- If handles or locks stick out into the recess
- How much of the frame you want to show
Account for the Radiator
Cast-iron radiators under the sill are common in pre-war apartments. They also make curtain length a real decision. Floor-length panels can bunch against the radiator and trap heat, and fabric too close to it may discolor.
Sill-length or apron-length curtains are common fixes. Some people pair a shorter panel with a shade inside the recess, so the radiator stays clear.
Length choices to consider:
- Ending just above the sill
- Stopping a few inches below the sill
- Floor length with clearance from the radiator
- A shade inside the recess instead
Wall Material Matters
Plaster over lath behaves very differently from drywall. It can crack if you drill carelessly, and the lath behind it doesn’t always hold a screw well. Brick needs masonry bits and anchors.
Before marking bracket holes, find out what you’re drilling into. Heavy lined curtains put steady weight on those brackets, and a loose one tends to pull out of old plaster.
What to check on the wall:
- Plaster, brick, or newer drywall
- Where the wood framing sits above the window
- Any old holes or patched sections
- The weight of the curtains you’ve chosen
Ceiling Height and Rod Position
High ceilings are one of the best parts of a pre-war room. Mounting the rod just above the frame can waste that height and make the window look smaller.
Raising the rod closer to the ceiling often makes the room feel taller. Keep in mind that a higher rod means longer panels, so measure from the rod line, not the top of the window.
Points to measure for rod height:
- Distance from window top to ceiling
- Any crown molding in the way
- The final drop from rod to floor or sill
- How much wall you want the curtains to cover
Stack-Back Room
Stack-back is the space open curtains take up at the sides of the window. If you don’t plan for it, the fabric sits on the glass and steals the light you wanted.
Measure the wall on each side of the frame. Thicker, lined fabrics stack wider than sheers, so your fabric choice changes how far the rod should extend.
What to measure for stack-back:
- Clear wall space left and right of the frame
- Nearby corners, doors or built-ins
- Outlets and switches near the window
- How full you want the curtains to hang
Odd Shapes and Arches
Transoms, bay windows, and arched tops often show up in older buildings. Each one needs its own approach, and a standard straight rod may not suit any of them.
For bays, measure each window section separately along with the angles between them. For arches and transoms, a paper template of the top curve is often more reliable than a tape alone.
How to handle unusual openings:
- Measure each bay section on its own
- Note the angles where sections meet
- Trace arched tops onto paper
- Decide if the transom stays uncovered
Getting the Numbers Right the First Time
With custom curtains, a small measuring mistake doesn’t stay small. If a panel comes up short or the rod lands wrong, you’re usually paying for the whole piece again.
If you’d rather not risk it, The Blinds Source has been measuring New York windows since 1994 and provides a professional measurement at no charge. It’s a simple way to make sure every panel fits your pre-war window the first time.